Greetings from Nashville

Friday we hit Nashville and look for somewhere to stay, which proves more difficult than we imagined. We want to stay downtown as we've got tickets for the Titans' pre-season game against the Redskins. Unfortunately so has everyone else in Nashville, or so it seems. At the Ramada next to the stadium we are told it's full. But at this point an unsatisfied customer (who looks very Stepford wife) comes marching up to the front desk and tells us we might want to find somewhere else. "Why, what's wrong with it?" I want to know. "It's nasty!" she says, in her best Bree Vanderkamp tone. "There's pube hairs on the bed!" And with this she flounces out to find alternative lodgings. After a couple of seconds thought we decide we will also pass on the newly available pube hair room and head to another hotel.

Friday evening we go to Bluebird Cafe for the early (free) show. There's a bunch of songwriters and a girl called Rachel Williams playing, who they all seem to be bigging up. Rachel is fairly attractive, the songwriters are not, which is why they are writers I guess. Ok so this is a bit unfair because Janet McLaughlin has a very good voice.

Rachel Williams (left), Bluebird Cafe.

We are seated with a family from Virginia who are in town for some conference to do with ethical cleaning products. They're very nice and all but these conferences (of which we noted many on our travels) do have a certain cultishness about them. You seem to be given a ribbon, the colour of which denotes your status within the organisation. Or so we imagine as we havent asked any cult member for verification, not wishing to engage them in conversation unnecessarily. Anyway, the Bluebird cafe show is pretty good. With drinks we spend $30, not bad for an evening's entertainment.

Saturday we visit the Country Music Hall of Fame, which is awesome. As well as telling the story of Country Music very well there are great exhibits such as Elvis' gold Cadillac, by the king of custom cars, George Barris (below).

There is also a fascinating temporary exhibition dedicated to Ray Charles, which includes some of his reading material (below).

This is a genuine exhibit but what is really interesting is that I'd never thought of him as a country artist. There is footage of him talking about the influence country music had on him and of him singing a stunning version of "Behind Closed Doors" for a Country Music Top 100. Unfortunately I couldnt find it for sale, so settled for the brilliant Friendship duet album, the highlight of which is "It Ain't Gonna Worry My Mind" with Mickey Gilley.

Saturday night we go to the football game. American Idol's Elliott Yamin does a stirring national anthem but after that there is little excitement. At half time its 3-0 to Nashville (i.e. 1 field goal) and I'v lost interest. We pass the time talking to the people next to us who tell us how they met on Myspace. The stadium is impressive at least.

LP Field, Nashville.

Sunday we relax then go to Layla's Blue Grass Inn on Broadway to see Jypsi. They play for 3 hours for tips only and do some great stuff, including a great version of "Apartment #9". Getting carried away with the country music vibe (and several Sam Adams beers) I buy a CD.

Jypsi, Layla's Bluegrass Inn.

Our top five country songs on the radio:

1. Tim McGraw - If You're Reading This (I'm already home)
2. Taylor Swift - Tim McGraw
3. Carrie Underwood - Jesus, Take the Wheel
4. Reba McIntire & Kelly Clarkson - Because of You
   
5. Rascal Flatts - Take Me There