Gator Country: a night on the swamp.

After a couple of days driving fairly long distances we feel the need to relax. We're back near where we began our journey, at Henderson, deep in Cajun country. We hire a houseboat on the Atchafalaya Basin for a couple of nights.

Owner Mitch towes us out to the swamp and gives us some tips on what to look out for. There are some ducks with "a orange, orange bill and orange, orange feet" he tells us, except in his Cajun accent it's "onje, onje bill and onje, onje feet". So our eyes are peeled for something paricularly orange (onje). At local supermarket Hebert's (Ay-bare's) the cashier says they call people on the landings "levee rats". I think this is mean as our hosts are some of the nicest people we have met in America.

The houseboat comes with a small boat with an outboard motor that we can use to explore the swamp. Whilst exploring we see an aligator on a few occasions, one time we circle each other to get a better look. It's like going on a swamp safari! The place is teeming with all kinds of ducks, herons, egrets, hawks etc. We also see turtles and, right next to our houseboat, a racoon family emerges from the bushes. Its nice to be in a peaceful place for a while and to wake up to this view:


After getting towed back around 2pm saturday afternoon we take a drive around the area again. These drive-thru daquiri/casino places are common, despite the radio messages from the sherrif saying "if I catch anybody drinking and driving they're getting a ticket!" It's against state law to have an open bottle containing alcohol in the car, even for a passenger, so they put some kind of stopper on the straw. Or so we are been told, as we didnt buy a daquiri. It's a very schizophrenic attitude to drink driving, it strikes us.

In New Iberia you can see the Sliman Theatre which bears the name "Evangeline". Taken from the heroine of Longfellow's poem, about the separation of two lovers during the expulsion of Acadians from Nova Scotia, the name crops up frequenlty in this area. There is the Evangeline Oak in St Martinville and even a racetrack called Evangeline Downs near Opelousas.


" Thus ere another noon they emerged from the shades; and before them

Lay, in the golden sun, the lakes of the Atchafalaya.

Water-lilies in myriads rocked on the slight undulations

Made by the passing oars, and, resplendent in beauty, the lotus

Lifted her golden crown above the heads of the boatmen"

- from "Evangeline", Henry Longfellow.

Ol' Man River

We've put over 3,500 miles on the clock and it seems much of the landscape we've seen seems to have featured the Mississippi River, so it seems only fair that it should get a photo. Melissa took this through the car window as we were driving up the ramp from the parking lot of some crappy river boat casino. The bridge pictured above crosses the river at Vicksburg, site of a bloody Civil War battle and huge war cemetary containing the graves of 17,000 soldiers.

On the road into Vicksburg is the wacky Church of The Double Headed Eagle, a folk art creation built by Reverend H. D. Dennis.


Further along the river road, back in Louisiana is the magnificent Nottoway plantation. David O Selznick was apparently desperate to use it as a location for Gone With The Wind, and you can see why. You could just picture the debutantes being presented here. It's actually closed for filming when we arrive but sadly we dont see Vivian Leigh or Clarke Gable.

We're now into territory that we've already visited. Heading towards Baton Rouge for the night we pass through Donaldsonville.


Further on, I'm looking at this building as we enter Ferriday again I miss the 35mph sign and end up $94 worse off. The fat retard who issues the ticket can barely read it appears, as he keeps asking me what my driving licence says. Ugh, idiot.


Route 61 had been a pleasant drive and I'd had the cruise control on to avoid speeding but the day ends badly with the stupid ticket. Hopefully things will improve back in Cajun country. So we just keep rollin...

Ol' Man River,
Dat Ol' Man River,
He mus' know sumpin',
But don' say nothin';
He jes' keeps rollin',
He keeps on rollin' along.

Memphis: Viva Elvis & Stax.

On the drive down the I-40 to Memphis the temperature on the car dial hits 42C! Hot, hot, hot!

It's Elvis week, the 30th anniversary of the King's death, so the town is mad busy but we find a cheap place to stay across the river in Arkansas (thanks Melissa's mum & dad for the tip). We head straight to Graceland, which is heaving with visitors as expected, with plenty of Elvis lookalikes in attendance.

Mourners/picture collectors, Graceland, Tn.

Apart from being hearded round the house like cattle, its a pretty cool place - they decor is much more funky than I'd expected. The audio tour says that Elvis installed 3 TVs when he heard that the president watched 3 TVs at once. I also enjoy seeing his reading material, which includes a Karate manual. At Studio B in Nashville we were told of an incident where Elvis had shown off his skills and karate kicked a gun from the hand of a band member. What a guy!

TV room, Graceland, Tn.

In the evening we get tickets to what is supposed to be a music & movie event at Graceland. Nascar driver Dale Earnhartd Jr is there and he's a big deal in the U.S. so a lot of people are there to see him. My paparazzi urge gets the better of me and I fire off a few frames of him in his golf buggy.

Dale Earnhardt Jr.

Then we have to listen while Dale, some other dude who drives drag cars and some dude from ESPN, drivel on about the private tour they've had. The event has been highjacked by the beer sponsor who are unveiling a car with Elvis livery. Dale Junior sits drinking beer while a guy plays some Elvis tracks. His favourite is "American Trilogy" he says. The guy who drives drag cars can't name a favourite Elvis tune as he doent know much about him, he admits. Pathetic. We leave before the movie starts.

Next day we visit the Stax Museum. Altough the original building was demolished, it sits on the site of the studio. It is also very good and tells a complimentary story to that at the Country Music Hall of Fame. Many of the black artists talk of the influence the Grand Ole Opry country radio show out of Nashville had on their music. It was also interesting to hear those who went on the Stax tour to Europe talk of how they didnt have the (racial) problems they had in America, when they were over there.

The Stax story is quite a sad one and musicians spoke of how the atmosphere where black and white musicians worked together without any issues changed after Dr King was murdered at the Lorraine Motel (below) in 1968.

Lorraine Motel, Memphis, Tn.

It was also sad that a label that had been home to Otis Redding, Carla & Rufus Thomas, Sam & Dave, Isaac Hayes, Booker T & the MGs and The Staple Singers went bankrupt costing co-founder Jim Stuart his fortune.

The area around McLemore St where Stax was based is nicknamed Soulsville. It seems quite run down in parts but we swing by 406 Lucy to see the house where Aretha Franklin was born. I cant help thinking this would have a blue plaque if it was England and certainly wouldn't look like this.

406 Lucy, Memphis, Tn.

In the afternoon we take a walk down Beale St, which the feel of a theme park. There doesn't appear to be any music worth checking out here so we head back to the motel to plan where to go next.

Greetings from Nashville

Friday we hit Nashville and look for somewhere to stay, which proves more difficult than we imagined. We want to stay downtown as we've got tickets for the Titans' pre-season game against the Redskins. Unfortunately so has everyone else in Nashville, or so it seems. At the Ramada next to the stadium we are told it's full. But at this point an unsatisfied customer (who looks very Stepford wife) comes marching up to the front desk and tells us we might want to find somewhere else. "Why, what's wrong with it?" I want to know. "It's nasty!" she says, in her best Bree Vanderkamp tone. "There's pube hairs on the bed!" And with this she flounces out to find alternative lodgings. After a couple of seconds thought we decide we will also pass on the newly available pube hair room and head to another hotel.

Friday evening we go to Bluebird Cafe for the early (free) show. There's a bunch of songwriters and a girl called Rachel Williams playing, who they all seem to be bigging up. Rachel is fairly attractive, the songwriters are not, which is why they are writers I guess. Ok so this is a bit unfair because Janet McLaughlin has a very good voice.

Rachel Williams (left), Bluebird Cafe.

We are seated with a family from Virginia who are in town for some conference to do with ethical cleaning products. They're very nice and all but these conferences (of which we noted many on our travels) do have a certain cultishness about them. You seem to be given a ribbon, the colour of which denotes your status within the organisation. Or so we imagine as we havent asked any cult member for verification, not wishing to engage them in conversation unnecessarily. Anyway, the Bluebird cafe show is pretty good. With drinks we spend $30, not bad for an evening's entertainment.

Saturday we visit the Country Music Hall of Fame, which is awesome. As well as telling the story of Country Music very well there are great exhibits such as Elvis' gold Cadillac, by the king of custom cars, George Barris (below).

There is also a fascinating temporary exhibition dedicated to Ray Charles, which includes some of his reading material (below).

This is a genuine exhibit but what is really interesting is that I'd never thought of him as a country artist. There is footage of him talking about the influence country music had on him and of him singing a stunning version of "Behind Closed Doors" for a Country Music Top 100. Unfortunately I couldnt find it for sale, so settled for the brilliant Friendship duet album, the highlight of which is "It Ain't Gonna Worry My Mind" with Mickey Gilley.

Saturday night we go to the football game. American Idol's Elliott Yamin does a stirring national anthem but after that there is little excitement. At half time its 3-0 to Nashville (i.e. 1 field goal) and I'v lost interest. We pass the time talking to the people next to us who tell us how they met on Myspace. The stadium is impressive at least.

LP Field, Nashville.

Sunday we relax then go to Layla's Blue Grass Inn on Broadway to see Jypsi. They play for 3 hours for tips only and do some great stuff, including a great version of "Apartment #9". Getting carried away with the country music vibe (and several Sam Adams beers) I buy a CD.

Jypsi, Layla's Bluegrass Inn.

Our top five country songs on the radio:

1. Tim McGraw - If You're Reading This (I'm already home)
2. Taylor Swift - Tim McGraw
3. Carrie Underwood - Jesus, Take the Wheel
4. Reba McIntire & Kelly Clarkson - Because of You
   
5. Rascal Flatts - Take Me There
   

Tennessee pt 1: Tourist stuff.

After Alabama, first stop in Tennesse is Chattanooga. We do a couple of touristy things: Ruby Falls and the Incline Railway. The railway is like a really slow roller coaster ride but its pretty cool - because its SLOW. Afterwards we have great ripped pork sandwiches with chili sauce at a diner nearby, delicious!

Incline Railway, Chattanooga, Tn.

The day after its Pigeon Forge, which our guidebook describes at "Vegas for redecks."

Pigeon Forge, Tn.

It appears to be a 5 mile long strip mall, with crazy golf courses, go-kart tracks and discount stores lining the roadside along with the obligatory food chains and motels. I like it.

The main attraction here is Dollywood and walking round the park in the 38C heat is a killer. Along with the rides, there's a bunch of shows, including Gospel band Kingdom Heirs, who suck, and the cheesy but enjoyable Country Crossroads (below).


Melissa insists on buying a keyring with a picture of me looking absolutely terrified on a roller coaster. The picture will not be re-printed here.

The next day we take a drive into the Smokey Mountains. We stop at this idyllic spot and have a swim in the river.
Smokey Mounains.

Several hours later we can continue on our journey. The reason: I locked the car keys in the boot and had to get a ride to the nearest town to arrange for a locksmith to get them out! At one point it was looking like even he couldnt get in but his last chance saloon bunch of keys did the trick and it was high fives all round. Honourable mention goes to the Visitor Center staff who were extremely helpful throughout the ordeal.

We drive round local beauty spot Cades Cove and see a bear but the strain of the day has taken its toll and I cant get excited, only annoyed by the inconsiderate a-holes not pulling into the lay-byes to let cars past. Hmpf. Roll on Nashville.

Alabama: birth place of the Civil Rights Movement

The only reason we're visiting Alabama is because it's on the way to Tennesse. But as we're gonna have to drive through it we decide we might as well check out two cities asscoiated with the Civil Rights struggle in the U.S.

The first is Montomery which turns out to be a very pleasant little town. A trolley bus takes you round the sights for $1. These include the capitol building, the Civil Rights Memorial and the church where Dr Martin Luther King was pastor, at Dexter Avenue.

Dexter Avenue Baptist Church

Civil Rights Memorial

There was a superb film shown at the Civil Rights Memorial center that celebrates those that died for the struggle. The focus of the center is to the highlight those less well known than Dr King and Rosa Parks, such as Michael Donald. Learning that his murder by the Klu Klux Klan took place as recently as 1981 (in our lifetime) was trully shocking. One positive outcome from his death was that the Klan was found guilty of wrongful death and ordered to pay Michael Donald's mother $7 million, which put them out of business.

Montgomery was also famously the site of the bus boycott sparked off by Rosa Parks. For a whole year black people refused to ride the busses in Montgomery in protest against segregation. The Selma to Montgmery march (where Jimmie Lee Jackson was shot by a state trooper) also ended here at the impressive Capitol Building.


From Montgomery we travel north to Birmingham to see the 16th Street Baptist church, which was the site of a bombing in 1963, which killed four little girls.

The church was closed as it was monday but Robert (who can just be seen seeted on the right of the picture) told us a bit about it. He lived just down the street and was 13 when he heard the bomb go off. He recalled that the police were on the scene suspiciously quickly to close off the area. He also told us about the police beatings and admitted that he was less willing than some to be subjected to them! Kelly Ingram park across the street has several sculptures relating to the time, including vicious police dogs, and water cannons. Four wells symbolise the four girls who died in the bombing: Addie Mae Collins, Denise McNair, Carole Robertson and Cynthia Wesley.

N'Awlins: What a wonderful world!

As we touch down in New Orleans on tuesday evening first impressions, it has to be said, are not good. We are staying half a block from Bourbon St which is home to numerous strip joints, and bars offering "Live Music, No Cover". The reason there is no cover is that the music played therein is really, really shit and noone in their right mind would pay to listen to it. Having said that many punters on Bourbon St have left the "right mind" state long ago: through too much alcohol or by just being plain crazy. One bar has a band doing soft rock covers, complete with wind machine to blow the singer's permed hair as he belts out "Pour Some Sugar on Me". At least they dont take themselves seriously.

Next morning we head to Cafe du Monde for the traditional New Orleans breakfast of coffee and beignets. A guy with a bmx bike decorated with beads catches my eye and I ask if take take a picture of it. It has a sticker on the seat post that says "Judas Priest" and he tells me that that's his name. Judas goes on to show me these pictures of Mary, one a traditional image, the other some random chick from a celebrity magazine.

I cant tell if he's a genuine nut job or if its an act for tourists like me. He does a pretty good job of convincing me its the former.

Wednesday we visit Mardi Gras World.


Thursday a drive along the Mississippi river road takes in the Laura plantation. A visitor from Indiana seems at pains to stress how well the slaves ate. Earlier, Kathe Hambrick at the River Road African American museum in Donaldsville has told us that this kind of take on slavery is not unusual and the reason she set up her museum. It's a great place and tells a very different story to the one told at the plantations, where they stress the economic achievments of the plantation owners. I think even I could run a succesful business if I had free labour. Maybe those folks from Indiana would be willing to help me out in exchange for some pounded yam!

Thursday night we head to Frenchman St, where the established Jazz venues are, and pay $7 each to get to hear really, really shit covers of Lionel Ritchie and Michael Jackson.

Friday night is the Satchmo Strut, where $25 buys a wristband which gains entry to the venues along Frenchman St and finally we get the music New Orleans is famous for. It kicks of with the Treme Brass Band parading through the street to the delight of the crowd.


Later they invade the Spotted Cat, a meeting point for many of the local musicians.


Sitting outside the Spotted Cat we get chatting to one of the locals. It turns out he is Jack Fine, founder of The Jazz Vipers. He tells us stories about New Orleans and introduces us to many of his friends who come up to say hello to him. They all ask him if he is going to play. After waving them away for about an hour he finally says to us, "I'm going to play the next song." He takes a battered old cornet (dating back to 1936) from its case and oils the valves. He goes inside and plays a couple of songs to bring a memorable evening to a fitting conclusion.